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Enterprise – The Premier Destination on the St. Johns River
Researched
and compiled by Lani K. Friend
|
From the early 1840s to the turn
of the century,
Lake
Monroe
and its cypress-lined shores teeming with wildlife attracted a stream of
visitors and settlers who traveled up the
St. Johns River. However, long before, a
diverse population of native Floridians had thrived along these riverbanks
for thousands of years.
University
of
Florida
researchers have found evidence of native settlement along the lake 6,200
years before present time. |
The
Enterprise Midden, sketch
of Enterprise shell mound in 1874 from Jeffries Wyman's book , was
“dinner debris” deposited by people living along the lake starting around
3,000 B.C. The ancestors of these natives, the Paleoindians, may have occupied
the area thousands of years before that.
Early Visitors
At
the time Pedro Menendez explored the St. Johns River in 1565, the Indians
residing here were the Mayaca whose chiefdom was near present Volusia
south of lake George. Clustered in small villages, they collected snails,
freshwater mussels and shellfish, cooked turtles in the shell, roasted deer,
alligators, and other game, and gathered roots, nuts, and berries from the
forest.
Under
Menendez, the Spanish may have come as far upriver as Lake Monroe searching for
the headwaters of the St. Johns River. In 1765 John and William Bartram
did travel upriver and through the lake seeking the river’s headwaters.
At present day Stone Island, the Bartrams observed calciferous deposits
containing human remains. Around this time, William de Brahm, as
surveyor for the British, observed and mapped “Lake Grant” and the river for
the colonial government of East Florida. In the early 1820s after Florida
was acquired from Spain, Lt. Charles Vignoles surveyed the region for the
new Territorial government and noted Green Springs on his map as the main
feature of interest along the lake.
Fort Kingsbury
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But
it was not until 1838 during the peak of the Second Seminole Indian War
(War of Indian Removal) that the wilderness around Lake Monroe was officially
opened with the construction of Ft. Kingsbury and the widening of the St.
Augustine Trail.
Ft.
Kingsbury, named after an officer who died of fever at Ft. Mellon, was located
along the lakefront to the west of Green Springs, as illustrated on the MacKay
and Blake army maps of 1838-39. The log stockade was a “satellite”
fort of Ft. Mellon across the lake, and one of a line of posts from New Smyrna
to Tampa intended to push the Seminole Indians south.
At
that time the interior of the peninsula was connected with a network of Indian
trails, probably the basis of the St. Augustine or Old Spanish Trail which
linked the north shore of Lake Monroe to Beresford, Spring Garden, and Old
King’s Highway on the coast. This important trail continued from Lake
Monroe to connect with sites in south Florida.
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“Armed Occupationists”
In
a final attempt to end the wars and drive the Seminoles out, the government
passed the Armed Occupation Act in 1842 granting 160 acres of land to
anyone willing to clear, cultivate, and hold five acres of land against the
Indians for five years. More than a thousand people applied for land under
the Act which opened up over 200,000 acres of land south of Palatka for
settlement. One of those applicants was an entrepreneurial figure
prominent in early Florida politics -- Cornelius Taylor.
Cornelius Taylor
Taylor
boasted that he “was the first to raise a band of something like twenty men”
to travel upriver and start a settlement, however small farms and huge
plantations had been established up and down the river since the late 1700s.
Starting out from the area of Old San Pablo near present day Mayport at the
mouth of the St. Johns River, the men loaded their families, slaves, worldly
goods, and livestock onto government boats that brought them to the north shore
of Lake Monroe. Taylor and the others first “squatted” on the land,
claiming their individual homesteads by right of possession.
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Old
Enterprise
–
Taylor
’s grant -- included the shell midden, three springs, and the site of
Ft.
Kingsbury
. Atop the shell mound,
Taylor
built a “pleasant and commodious” inn to attract travelers who visited
Lake
Monroe
on the steamboats. There were also several outbuildings and slave
quarters, a sawmill, sugar boiler, and orange grove. |
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Aside from the picturesque
quality of the area with its emerald springs, the main attraction of the
upper
St. Johns River
at that time was live oak, highly prized by the Navy for
shipbuilding.
Shown at left is the old oak tree (no
longer standing) on the lakefront near the Brock House.
|
Live Oak Harvesting
Taylor
had started out as a U.S. Timber Agent, commissioned to prevent
contractors and individuals from cutting stands of trees on public land and
angering many of them in the process. With the advent of a new
administration in Tallahasee, Tayor was replaced by another agent and quickly
changed his position to demand that settlers be allowed to harvest their timber
and sell it to private contractors. This they immediately did until a
directive came down from the federal government saying that only the timber
necessary for house clearing and cultivation could be cut.
The
quest for live oak to supply the Navy resulted in the wholesale decimation of
the timber resources of the Southeast, alarming Congress into passing a law in
1822 to protect remaining stands of timber on public land.
Settlement Problems
Under
the Armed occupation Act, the government induced settlers to venture into the
wilderness and establish homesteads, promising rations, ammunition, and troop
protection for at least a year. However, after only a month or two, the government
reneged, cutting off food, supplies, and troops. An outraged Taylor
wrote a lengthy letter to a St. Augustine newspaper complaining that the
government had left them to the mercy of the Indians like sitting ducks.
Many of the settlers at Enterprise and Ft. Mellon headed back to whence they
came. But some, like the Taylors, their relatives by marriage the
Houstons, and the Simpsons, the Demasters, and others stayed on and established
prosperous farms and plantations around the lake.
Not long after the Taylor’s
arrival, tragedy struck the family when Taylor’s oldest daughter “Polly”
(Mary Arabella) died in September of 1842 in an epidemic now thought to
have been smallpox which also took the lives of nine slaves. But the
family persevered, planting oranges, sugar cane, and cotton and attracting
tourists to their mineral springs. One visitor impressed by the improvements
made by all the families around the lake declared in 1843 that Enterprise “is
destined one day to become one of the most important inland towns in the
Territory.”
New Enterprise
The
next major figure in Enterprise history was Jacob Brock, a steamboat
captain transporting invalids upriver to recover their health at spas like the
one Taylor had developed around his springs. Florida had become a mecca
for those seeking a health cure, and hotels all along the river were jammed with
sufferers of respiratory disorders, arthritis, and myriad afflictions.
In
1851 Brock started purchasing land a mile west of Old Enterprise, laying out
streets and lots, and building a wharf. The property he bought included a
wood frame store and possibly a small boardinghouse. He planned to build a
huge hotel that would rival anything in the North to accommodate passengers
“doing the St. Johns River.”
Around
this time, Virgil DuPont, related to the large and influential DuPont family in
St. Augustine, had acquired a land grant near a small flowing spring later known
as Benson Springs near the present power plant. He ran a small hotel with
an orange grove across from the site of the future Brock House. By 1854, Brock
would complete his own 100-room hotel that would put Enterprise on the map as
“the premier destination on the St. Johns.” From his wharf he operated
the first regular line of steamboats from Jacksonville to Lake Monroe.
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In 1854 the part of
Orange
County
east of the river became
Volusia
County
with
Enterprise
as the county seat. The first
courthouse (may be the one shown here) was built not far behind
Brock’s hotel. Brock later
donated land at the site of the present elementary school for a second
courthouse built around 1867. Close
by on the courthouse grounds was the second cemetery at
Enterprise
. |
The Steamboat Era on the St. Johns River
After
the Civil War, a new era of tourism began in Florida with hundreds of visitors
making the journey upriver on steamboats. Enterprise was declared a
“hunting and fishing paradise” featuring mineral springs and exciting
excursions to shoot alligators or row up DeBary Creek.
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During this era, the Brock
House Hotel became the most famous hotel in
Florida
, attracting notables and celebrities from all over the world.
Among its famous visitors were Grover Cleveland, Ulysses S. Grant,
Jay Gould, the Vanderbilts, James Rockefeller, and Gen. William Sherman. |
In 1876 Brock sold his property to Luther Caldwell who expanded and improved the
hotel. Caldwell was involved in forming a new railroad to ship citrus from
the Indian River. The rail-pier, where five steamboats a day once docked,
was located just east of Broadway Street. In 1887 Enterprise was able to
access the Jacksonville Tampa and Key West Railroad by a spur from
Enterprise to Enterprise Junction. The advent of these rail lines spelled
the end of the steamboat era.
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In 1867 Elijah
Watson had opened a dry goods store to serve the 486 people in the area.
Five years later William Thayer and John Sauls opened a
competing store at the corner of
DeBary Avenue
and
Main Street
(shown). |
Enterprise Incorporates and Deincorporates
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In 1877 twenty-five citizens
voted to incorporate
Enterprise
as a town. Ten of them became
town officials.
Enterprise
remained the county seat until 1888 when the growing population in DeLand
voted to move the courthouse there.
The town seal (left) shows the
old shell mound to the right of a tree. At the base of the tree appears to
be an ax which is leaning against the trunk.. |
In
the late 1880s a yellow fever epidemic raged across the state, closing down
entire cities. The population of Enterprise was reduced so much that the
town voted to deincorporate in 1895.
DeBary
Holdings in Enterprise
Among
the prominent guests at Brock’s now expanded hotel were Samuel Frederick
DeBary and Henry A. DeLand. DeBary, an agent for Mum’s Champagne in
New York, purchased 5,000 acres to the west in 1871 and built a grand 20-room
mansion/hunting lodge as a winter retreat for his family and friends. Over
the next decade, he cultivated thousands of acres of orange trees in the area,
shipping the fruit north on his steamboat line. One of his properties was
Green Springs, an attraction enjoyed by his guests and guests of the Brock
House. Much of the acreage around the spring was planted in orange trees.
The shell mound was carted away to create roads and sidewalks and cultivate the
orange groves.
All Saints Episcopal Church
DeBary was interested in
establishing a church, and together with Arthur Benson of Montauk, New York,
donated funds for the construction of All Saints Episcopal Church.
Construction was completed in 1883. Donations were also made by guests at
the Brock House and visitors to DeBary Hall. Today it is listed on the National
Register of Historic Places.
Enterprise Schools
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The old courthouse had
been sold in 1891 to the Board of Instruction for a Normal School.
It continued to be used as a school until torn down in 1917
to build a new school on the site. The
present two-story structure (the second oldest building) was built around
1935 for the older grades. In
1964 a fire started by lightning destroyed most of the older building. |
But
the courthouse building was not the oldest school in Enterprise. That
honor goes to a freedmen’s school formed by Charles Chipman in 1869.
“I am now teaching about fifteen scholars by the light of pine knots in front
of my shanty, after working through the day trying to get a potato crop
growing.” Chipman asked the freedmen’s bureau to build a schoolhouse
for students here and for the 25 waiting for a teacher at Sauls, but the bureau
ceased operation, and his request went unfilled.
St. Paul’s African Methodist Episcopal Church
In
the 1880s, black residents held fairs and potluck suppers to raise funds for
their own church. Finally, in the late 1880s, St. Paul’s African
Methodist Episcopal Church was built. Originally located off Old
Titusville Road, it is one of the earliest AME churches in Central Florida. The
Rev. A. A. Fleming also supervised the congregation in the construction of a
schoolhouse around 1890.
The End of an Era
In
1894-95 a catastrophic freeze wiped out the citrus industry in much of the
state, including the extensive DeBary groves. Jacob Brock had died in
1880, and DeBary followed in 1898. With the coming of the railroad and the
end of steamboat travel, the heyday of Enterprise as a boom town on the river
was coming to a close.
Florida
United Methodist Children’s Home
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Over the years, the
Brock House had hosted numerous religious assemblies including the Methodist
missionary conferences. The
Methodist concern for orphans resulted in the beginnings of the
Children’s Home. In 1908 Mother Hattie Brooks, widow of a Civil
War doctor, was brought from
Tampa
to help found an orphanage in
Enterprise
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Mother Brooks’ Home
A handful of
little girls arrived soon after and were kept at her home in the “Old Yellow
Hotel” on Main Street. Upstairs was a thriving saloon for the steamboat
clientele. A few years later, the Florida Methodist Orphanage was relocated
further south on Main Street to the old Arcade Building across from the
present entrance to the Florida United Methodist Children’s Home. Housing only
a handful of children, it occupied the top floor of an arcade building above a
line of shops. Later, Lt. Col. Bodine, a Civil War officer, donated his home,
the large and beautiful Bodine House, to accommodate the growing
enrollment.
At some point
during the early 1900s, the Brock House Hotel was renamed the Epworth Inn,
and became a Methodist retreat for those seeking spiritual haven from the world
and for those studying at the Methodist Training Center in town. The
Brock House property was eventually acquired by the Methodist Children’s Home.
Benson Springs
Town feelings
ran high in the early 1920s when an ambitious new proprietor of the renamed
Benson Springs Hotel had guests sign a petition to change the town name to
correspond. The idea was to focus attention on the flowing spring near the
former Brock House located on land now owned by the power plant. The name
Benson Springs stuck until 1937 when townfolk used the same tactic to have
school children sign a petition changing the name back to Enterprise. That same
year the hotel, now dilapidated and vandalized, was razed, providing much-needed
space for the Florida United Methodist Children’s Home to become a cornerstone
of modern Enterprise.
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